After an early wake up call yesterday, have a bit of a lie in on day two. On your way out of town, grab a quick breakfast at Beachcove Cafe. Then hit the road for Derrynane, home to Derrynane House which is part of Páirc Náisiúnta na Mara, Ciarraí—Ireland’s newest and first marine national park.

Derrynane House is the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, a celebrated 18th and 19th century Irish patriot who fought peacefully for emancipation of the Irish Catholic community. This beautifully preserved Georgian house not only offers a glimpse into O’Connell’s personal life, but also includes a stone fort and extensively manicured gardens. The estate is also situated near an expansive beach, with a historic abbey located at one end. The property and adjacent beach and harbor are part of the newly appointed *Páirc Náisiúnta na Mara, Ciarraí. 

Though I’d been to Kerry, this was my first visit to Derrynane, and it did not disappoint. The entire property is magnificent and the views as you come over the sand dunes onto the beach will take your breath away. I was here on a Friday mid-morning and nearly had the whole place to myself. Give yourself plenty of time to amble through this splended mix of history and nature. Derrynane Beach is also one of Ireland’s many Blue Flag beaches, which are renowned for their commitment to conservation and sustainable tourism management and development.

Next, head to the colorful village of Sneem for lunch at the Bridge Bistro, which may be one of the most dog-friendly eateries I’ve ever encountered. Not only was the service welcoming to both myself and Chicken, the food was delightful. After a brisk morning on the beaches at Derrynane, a soup, hot sandwich, and cup of tea were just the fix. Chicken didn’t mind the dog treats, either.

Our final push took us back through Moll’s Gap, past Lady’s View, and into Killarney, the largest town in Kerry. Even during the early spring, when some stops along the Ring of Kerry had not yet opened for the season, Killarney was bustling. It’s a popular spot for stag (bachelor) and hen (bachelorette) parties, and can be simply crawling with visitors in the summer. If you find yourself passing through during the busy season, consider Kenmare or Tralee as alternatives for accommodation.

Dog-Friendly Killarney Hotel Recommendation: The Brook Lodge Hotel

*Ireland is a bi-lingual country, with signs and governmental correspondence represented in both English and Irish. Communities where the language is particularly prevelent are called Gaeltacht, and many of these areas can be found in rural pockets of Ireland like Kerry. As part of the cultural revival of the language, Ireland’s most recent national park is aptly and officially named Páirc Náisiúnta na Mara, Ciarraí, in the Irish language, which translates to Kerry Marine National Park in English.

The third day of this solo female travel itinerary through Kerry, Ireland, is all about Killarney National Park. Located on the edge of the town of Killarney, Ireland’s first national park is also home to Ireland’s tallest mountain mountain range, the McGillyCuddy’s Reeks. While not located within the Killarney National Park itself, the tallest mountain in Ireland, Carrauntoohil, is also located nearby within this same mountain range. The trek up Carrauntoohil is not a dog-friendly hike and is best done with a guide, so I opted instead to climb nearby Torc Mountain inside the national park.

The summit of Torc Mountain overlooks the Muckross Estate which includes a lake, historic home, and gardens. The trail up Torc is also located off the Kerry Way, a thru-hiking and cycling route which encircles the Iveragh Peninsula. By now, you’ve probably intersected the Kerry Way dozens of times in your travels along the Ring of Kerry. If you’re looking for a village-to-village hiking route in Ireland that crosses diverse terrain and is well-maintained, the Kerry Way is your best bet.

After a gorgeous morning hike up and down Torc Mountain, take some time to explore the Muckross Estate. The trail system leads right onto the grounds, which are free and open to the public. There is also free parking at the grounds entrance or you can walk or cycle there from town. The real hidden gem at Muckross is the abbey where you can wander the surprisingly well-preserved remains of the 14th century Cloister. On a cheerful, sunny day, this is a popular spot for picnics, scenic strolls, and a cheeky dip in the lake.

We were visiting Killarney during the Guinness Six Nations Rugby tournament, which happens every year in the spring. So naturally we ended our day by securing a cozy spot in Charley Foley’s Pub & Inn (dog-friendly!) to cheer on Ireland against Italy over a few well-earned post-hike pints.

On our last day, we packed up and headed back to Dublin. If you’re following the same route, a pit stop at the Rock of Cashel is highly recommended. Once the traditional seat of the kings of Munster before the Norman invasion, this ancient royal site offers visitors breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding County Tipperary countryside while telling a poignant story of Ireland’s complicated history, particularly during Oliver Cromwell’s devastating campaigns.

Alternatively, from Killarney, you could continue on to other areas of Kerry, like the Dingle Peninsula, or head north on the Wild Atlantic Way. The options are endless!